South African Cap Classique (sparkling wine) is poised to achieve even greater international acclaim thanks to a talented cohort of winemakers like Danielle Coetsee (née Jacobs) from the renowned Boshendal winery in the Western Cape.
“This year we are celebrating 40 years of making Cap Classique,” says 27-year old winemaker Danielle Coetsee who tasked with making the estate’s bottle-fermented sparkling wines, popularly known as “MCC” in South Africa, that is made according to the traditional method (Méthode Champenoise) most famously used in the French region of Champagne.
In 2017 Danielle came to the Franschhoek Valley estate, dating back to the 17th century, to work as an assistant winemaker after successful appointments at the Western Cape’s Eerste Hoop and Noble Hill wineries. Boschendal then decided to appoint separate white and sparkling winemakers in 2019. Danielle embraced the opportunity to use pursue her passion for making MCC that had begun at Noble Hill in the Simonsberg Mountains. “It is so special as it is such a long process,” says Danielle, “You are continuously learning and witnessing the development of the wines as they age on lees after bottling [a stage in the maturation phase].”
The partly enigmatic nature of the process is recognised by Danielle who also suggests that a winemaker cultivates their own special response to the craft. “A winemaker has a ‘feeling’ regarding a wine, a ‘sixth sense’ that you get that influences your winemaking practice,” explains Danielle, “It’s unique for every winemaker and partly why every wine is unique.”
Danielle acknowledges, like many of her counterparts, that their technical input is only part of the winemaking process: “One of the factors that keep harvests interesting and challenging each year are the natural influences you cannot control.” Danielle appreciates that while a winemaker can influence the process by “managing” factors such as the selection of grapes and the regions they are from, she readily admits: “At the end of the day Mother Nature will decide!”
This is certainly the case at the moment as the estate team are busy harvesting grapes. “It is one of the most exhilarating and fun times for a winemaker,” says Danielle, “The ‘beehive vibe’ keeps us on our toes!” Danielle reports that good quality grapes, especially Sauvignon Blanc, are being harvested but many berries are noticeably small, due in part to a long winter and a delayed start to summer in the Western Cape.
Central to her success, recognised in being named “Woman Winemaker of the Year” at the 2020 SA Women’s Wine & Spirit Awards, are her personal and professional “support” systems. “I got married in November 2020,” says Danielle, “My husband is a viticulturist so it is really nice when your life partner understands your challenges and frustrations.” She also explains that Boschendal offers a great working environment: “We have a close knit team with real experience, they really inspire me.” The processing knowledge of team member Babrow Oliver is especially valued by Danielle. The support she has received from other industry professionals is also appreciated. These include former Boschendal winemaker Lizelle Herber and cellar master Elunda Basson at Steenberg Farm.
In terms of milestones, 2020 was special not just for industry recognition but also personal fulfilment at Boschendal. “My first year of full cycle production with bubbly has been one of my career highlights,” says Danielle, “The challenges arising from the pandemic made it even more impactful.” She also values the sense of achievement derived from simply team gatherings to sample their work with the satisfaction of knowing they had created an outstanding sparkling wine.
When asked which of her sparkling wines she most enjoys, Danielle reveals her ‘go to’ choices are the Boschendal Brut MCC and Rosé MCC but reveals her favoured choice is something else: “A really special one for me is the Boschendal Grand Cuvee Blanc to Blanc MCC which is one of our Elgin Appellation Cap Classique wines with extended lees ageing. It maintains freshness and lively acidity which I find very special in South Africa’s Cap Classique wines.”
In terms of food pairing, Danielle recommends an unconventional but simple choice for the Boschendal Brut MCC: “Hot chips with a good dash of salt. There is science behind it. It is quite brilliant!” She also suggests a classic pairing: “Oysters and bubbly is fantastic. I had a lot of it on my honeymoon.” Cream-based dishes are also recommended with any bubbly, Danielle’s personal favourite being crème brulee with the Boschendal Grand Cuvee Blanc de Blanc.
Looking forward, Danielle is clear about the future direction of MCC: “Diversity! People are not sticking to the norm and what has typically been done with Méthode Champenoise style wines” Danielle welcomes “playful” experimentation with new blends and other innovations: “Cap Classique winemakers are becoming more adventurous. It’s what keeps it interesting and fun.” She equally welcomes a lower impact approach to viticulture, such as new approaches to pest control while also supporting the introduction of beehives and other initiatives to promote biodiversity on estates. Danielle simply sums up her approach as: “Respect the fruit and nature. Put back what you take out.”
Finally, Danielle is mindful of the pandemic’s impact upon her industry in South Africa (and other wine-producing countries like Australia). This has included a ban on alcohol sales during lockdowns. She welcomes the social media campaigns such as #SaveSouthAfricanWine to drive global support for producers that export their wines. Danielle has a simple suggestion to anyone abroad wanting to support South African wine – just buy a bottle…
