Winemaker Johann Fourie’s passion for the Benguela Cove vineyard is reflected in the remarkable wines he is now producing. They beautifully reflect the special climatic conditions and terroir of the estate that sits in the south-western Western Cape province of South Africa.
Johann was introduced to viticulture as a component of his degree in agriculture. Studying in Stellenbosch, in the heart of the Western Cape winelands, also had a significant influence upon him. “I spent a lot of time visiting vineyards,” recalls Johann, “I fell in love with growing vines, making wines, partly through chemistry and microbiology but also with artistry – this intrigued me.”
In subsequent years, Johann went on to become winemaker at the Badsberg Winery in the Breede River Valley wine region of the Western Cape province. Johann then moved on to the major South African wine producer KWV in 2006 where he became Chief Winemaker. He further established his reputation as a leading figure in the industry making award-winning wine with grapes sourced from multiple growers from around the country. It was during his time at KWV that he encountered the grapes of Benguela Cove, an estate in Walker Bay, close to the ocean in the seaside town of Hermanus, that had been purchased by business tycoon Penny Streeter and her family in 2013. The 70-hectare vineyard formed part of a stunning 200 hectare complex that would be created by the family. It now includes a residential estate, restaurants, golf course and a sculpture park. “I got on board to help build the winery,” recalls Johann, “I was drawn to the unique location, it really had a character and personality of its own. The grapes were so different.” After two years, Johann joined the estate full time as Head Winemaker as he was keen not just to make award-winning wines but also cultivate vines as well. “I worked with many vineyards across South Africa,” says Johann, “My next step was to work on one property and I was drawn to Benguela Cove knowing it had excellent potential.”
Benguela Cove was not initially seen as an ideal location for a vineyard, however, due to relatively poor soils and its windswept location where Walker Bay meets the Bot River. Nevertheless, Johann as an enthusiast for ‘cool climate’ wines was eager to unlock the potential of the site and explains: “The vines struggle to grow and have smaller berries that are naturally ‘stressed’. This results in grapes that have a higher concentration of flavour, acidity and tannin levels – and often higher quality wines.”
The first vines were planted 18 years ago with one part of the estate being just 2.7 metres above sea level. “We are the lowest vineyard in South Africa and possibly the world,” says Johann, “The ocean has such a big impact on our wine style.” Benguela Cove’s vines actually benefit from prevailing winds that reduce the heat of the afternoon across the estate. “This creates cooler growing conditions,” explains Johann, “Cool climate wines produce a much longer growing season compared to warm climate wines with the grapes accumulating sugar and ripeness over a longer growing period.” This helps create elegant, fresh and fruity results that offer a delightful contrast to the bold character of many warm climate wines. The grapes that really love the temperature fluctuation of the vineyard include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Johann is also keen on Syrah (also called Shiraz): “It’s an interesting grape, working equally well in warm and cool climate regions. It just produces a different taste profile from blackcurrant, full-fruit to that of peppery and spicy.”
Throughout the years, Johann has taken a pragmatic approach to his work: “Winemaking is something you cannot master!” he explains, “Every single year, Mother Nature can change the grapes from the same vines.” Nevertheless, as a winemaker Johann is committed to achieving outstanding results, he explains: “I love experimenting, pushing boundaries and being innovative to improve my work.” Such agility and ambition enables him to meet the challenges of increasingly changing weather patterns. This is also reflected in the adoption of winemaking technology – including drones to help make irrigation or fertiliser plans within specific blocks of vines.
Johann, however, also acknowledges performing his role as an effective leader and team player is also crucial to achieving great results in winemaking: “You cannot do it on your own! My team is super important with every person being a vital part of the chain. All of them are aligned to our quest for precision and quality in what we do.”
While ‘pushing boundaries’ to create outstanding wines in this unique location, Johann is fully supportive of the estate’s commitment to be both responsible employers and custodians of the land they occupy. He explains: “We believe in taking care of our environment and our people. It’s something we feel is right.” Benguela Cove is committed to the industry standards recommended by trade body Wines of South Africa (WoSA) and its Sustainable Wine South Africa programme.
While the vineyard is in its infancy, Johann is proud of the recognition it has received, which includes winning the Frank Myburgh Trophy for the best Semillon and the SBW Trophy for a White Blend (a blend of Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc) for wines made from its maiden vintage at the 2017 Young Wine Show. The annual South African awards, dating back to 1833, does not judge final bottled wines but wines from tanks and barrels. The event gives winemakers the opportunity to measure their various wines, experimental styles and new varieties against their peers in the industry. “This really showed everyone they should take note of this new producer,” recalls Johann, “This was a sweet moment!” The team went on to win gold medals in 2019 at the prestigious Veritas wine awards for the Estate Chardonnay 2017, Vinography Petit Verdot 2017 and Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2017. “It was great to have that success for such a young producer,” says Johann, “It shows the quality of the fruit and winery. I knew Benguela Cove’s potential before I joined – it just had to be unlocked.” Without doubt, the dedication of Johann and his team will result in many outstanding wines being created in the years to come.
The South African Chamber of Commerce UK invites you to an ‘International Drinks Tasting’ featuring Benguela Cove wines and hosted by the Council of Foreign Chambers of Commerce in the UK at Drapers’ Hall in the City of London on 12 April 2022. More details here.
All images courtesy of Benguela Cove Lagoon Wine Estate.
Thank you to Johann Fourie and Patrick Rea for their assistance in the production of this post.
